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Life up on the Escarpment.

Category: Cattle Compensation, Maasai Community | Date: Apr 25 2008 | By: William

I spent the beginning of this week at Saruni’s home, a hand charge here at the Conservancy. His home is up on the escarpment about 6km from Oloololo Gate, and the border of the park.

The Escarpment

The Escarpment in the background.

The escarpment makes up the third border of the park, running along the west, with the other two borders being the Mara River and the Kenya/Tanzania border.

I stayed two nights at Saruni’s and both nights there were attempts from a leopard to break into his boma.

Saruni's Home

Saruni in front of his cows and his home.

The first alarm you hear is the growl of the dog, followed by the rumbling of 50 cattle running from one side of the boma to the other, the bells around the necks now swinging madly. Before the dog was fully barking, Saruni was out of the house and chasing the leopard away, armed only with a torch and a stick.

There is a constant need to be alert, not only against lions and leopards, but on the first night six hyenas also tried to break into the boma where the goats are kept.

Putting the animals to bed.

Putting the animals to bed.

Unlike many Maasai on the escarpment, Saruni has another income to his household coming from the work he does for the Conservancy. However, since January he has had five sheep killed - 4 by a leopard and 1 by hyenas - along with 3 cows killed - 2 heifers by leopards, and a pregnant cow was killed by a lion. In terms of money this is more than 40,000 Kenyan Shillings (US $645), but to give you a better idea of the value of this loss, for Saruni this is the equivalent to 7 months salary.

On Tuesday I stopped by at Enkereri to give them a print out of the article by Reuters, and despite all the improvements we had seen them make to their bomas on Saturday, a leopard had broken in on Monday evening and killed a goat.

Reuters at Enkereri

Reuters at Enkereri.

I saw Ranger Kimanjoi on the Wednesday, who had been at home for 10 days. He also lives on the escarpment, about 10km away from Saruni’s home, and he also related a story how only two nights previously, two lionesses had come to his village and killed a cow.

The first reaction from the men was to hunt the lions with their bows and arrows, but Kimanjoi convinced them that the best thing to do would be to just chase them away from the village, which they did for two hours by following the lionesses and shouting.

Lions yesterday

Lions yesterday in the park, with a warthog kill.

Here are three stories collected in just a couple of days, but the escarpment runs along the park for a good 31 kilometres and is home to hundreds of small villages, each with another story to tell. I’ve only been here a short time, and have only met a few people, but the attachment I’ve seen between the Maasai I’ve met and their cows is so strong that it would be difficult to say that they are not doing their best to defend their cattle against these attacks.

Saruni and one of his cows

Saruni and one of his cows.

As we’ve already said, at this time of year the conflict between wildlife and the human populations is at its highest, but before, rather than being a major financial loss, the local people were compensated from revenue brought in by tourist visits to the park.

As we are now experiencing, it is not always good to be dependent on tourism, but for so many years the visitors to the Mara had become an incredibly important part of keeping the balance between the wildlife and the human populations.

Since January that balance has gone, and so far the wildlife has survived and it has been the local communities, which includes those who work here at Mara Conservancy, who have had to suffer the consequences.

Saruni's Grandfather

Saruni’s Grandfather.

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5 Responses to “Life up on the Escarpment.”

Wanda, Atlanta, on 25 Apr 2008

Oh I wish the money could come back quickly and the compensation could resume — I see their love of thier cows but I so love the lions and leopards too — how horrible but such a hard fact in livestock life.

James, on 26 Apr 2008

They are truly amazing photos and your post really helps me see how widespread the problem is. I thought from previous postings that it was just two or three villages affected, I didn’t realise that the escarpment ran for over 30 kilometres.

What is the population density like up on the escarpment? How much of the land is used for crop growing and is there any conflict between the community and the elephants?

Harold (Netherlands), on 26 Apr 2008

Hi Joseph,

I think me and the people around me cannot express enough the appreciation for the work you guys are doing. You guys are true heroes. There was a big article in the Dutch newapeper Metro last week about the Mara and the problems you are facing at the moment with the tourists not coming. So you can see the awareness is raising. Let’s hope that the world opens there eyes and that the people start coming again soon.

All the best for you and the whole team,

Harold

kimojino, on 28 Apr 2008

It is very difficult to the communities at the escarpment to face all these problems caused by wildlife. Many are engaged in agricultural activities growing maize for subsistence and as cash earner. The crop is now flowering and will be ready for harvesting in July and August. We normally have elephants going up the escarpment and destroying these crops, but compensation is not made.

William, on 28 Apr 2008

Hello James

I’ve been told that the population density is quite high up on the escarpment, and that more people are turning to crop growing.

Conflict between elephants and crop growers is quite high just above Oloololo gate, at the north of the Triangle, but it is not yet a huge problem like we are facing between the predators and the local community.

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